By Umbra Rep Jackie Hanson, Arcadia University
When you are eating a slice, what do you think of? Do you think of how the cheese is made, the people that have helped make the cheese, or the factory that it came from? I never asked myself these questions until very recently after attending the Parma and Modena weekend field trip with the Food, Sustainability, & the Environment program. In this weekend long trip, we visited a Parma Ham factory, a balsamic vinegar producer in Modena, and a Parmigiano Reggiano factory in Parma. Personally, the most eye opening, heart touching, and educational experience was the Parmigiano Reggiano factory in Parma.
In this factory, we were able to see the milk being warmed, whey being separated, the cheese separating from the milk, the drying room, rein making room, and the aging room. For some reason, seeing the whole entire process makes you feel like you have a stronger connection with the cheese. Instead of mindlessly looking for the name, Parmigiano Reggiano, in the food store, you can look at it and know all the thought that has gone into making a small triangle of cheese. Not only does seeing the process make you have a greater appreciation for the cheese, but understanding that the techniques used to make the cheese today have been the same for many years. There is a long line of hands, minds, and hearts that have carefully considered each technique to make this certain type of cheese in this area. More specifically thinking, the salting room of the factory is where the cheese soaks in order to absorb the salt to preserve it and make the rein. This technique has been used since the Middle Ages and continues today.
Furthermore, there is a very special “passing of the baton” with the “cheese master”. From the past and to the present, there is a person that is known to be so skilled in knowing if the quality of the milk and cheese is good just by running their fingers through the clumps after the rennet is added. Typically, this is an older man. In the past, before jobs were not as labor intensive, an entire family could be working in the cheese factory. One person could be milking the cows, stirring the whey, adding the rennet, or shaping the cheeses. Normally the elder of the family, or the person with the most wisdom of the cheese, is granted the most respected position of the “cheese master”. This person knows the cheese so well that they can tell if it is perfect just by seeing, smelling, and touching it. This “passing of the baton” has since faded, but adds to the value of the making of cheese and the history behind the factory. It is not only a group of people who are passionate about food and cheese, but a family who is close enough to work together and share their family’s love for cheese with the rest of the world.
By the end of the trip, I learned way more than I ever thought I would. Now, when I look for cheese at a local food store, I not only look for the right cheese, but I look for the location. When picking up the cheese, I think about the people we met at the factory that would stir the milk, check the quality of the cheese, and inspect the cheese. Each bite of Parmigiano Reggiano is a reminder of the history that went into this cheese making and the people that give many hours into making it so perfect. I highly recommend taking the opportunity to visit the Parmigiano Reggiano factory even if you are not a part of the Food and Sustainability program. There are tours open to the public! It will give you memories for a lifetime!
If you want to learn more about the Food, Sustainability, & the Environment Program, click here.